“”The cuisine of Almeria is marked by historical events that this land has had to overcome; centuries of isolation from the rest of the provinces and its self-sufficiency have resulted in a diverse cuisine but always supported above the typical products of the province. To finish, the most “new”… tapas, that erupt brazenly defying the traditional cuisine, we’re sure that it will once again adapt and incorporate its rich gastronomic history.

Manu Balanzino, The Gourmet Journal “”

I continue to advance through these lands, en route to Almeria, where the marine breeze accompanies us until we reach the city. Halfway there, I stop at the  Castell de Ferro , situated at the foot of the hill that crowns the ancient castle, in the middle of the ample promenade of the town of Gualchos.

La Lonja de Pescado (Fish Market)

Now entering Almeria, I remember the motto of Rodolfo Lussnigg, “Almeria, the city where the sun stays the winter”, simple words that describe it perfectly, the climate and its population.

One can see that the Almeria cuisine is influenced gastronomically by the Granada Alpujarra (region on the skirts of the Sierra Nevada between Granada and Almeria) and the Murcia current. Yet at the same time, the culinary varieties of this province precede the influence of different Andalusian zones.

Almeria, between its immense coasts highlighting its port, considered one of the most important on the Mediterranean. We head toward La Lonja de Pescado (Fish Market) to get to know in detail the hand of Jose Maria Gallart, manager of Asopesca, and great connoisseur of this sector. He tells us that the Alboran Island, situated in the sea of the same name, half way between the Iberian Peninsula and the North of Africa, pertains to this province administratively. From there, the fishermen bring the well-known “Almeria Red Prawn” and the “Alboran Red Prawn”, now registered brands in our market, moreover highlighting its excellent quality.

La Térmica Cuisine & Music

We continue on the coast and find ourselves in a new establishment under the name La Termica (The Thermal), as its slogan says, it’s another story. Accounting for a fine restaurant, a gin & tonic club and a nightlife area, it converts itself into a suitable place to have some drinks looking at the reflection of the stars on the sea. There at the hands of chef Nacho Barea, he delights us with some tapas like oxtail tacos, scallop gratin with citrus and saffron foam and an Iberian pork fillet focaccia, brie cheese, sun dried tomatoes and apple and raisin jams, that without a doubt motivate us to start again.

However, as we remarked before, in Almeria we find a wide range of restaurants, finding such traditional places like Bar Chele. Owned by Diego Segura since 1974, now in the hands of his son with the same name as his father. He tells us that 22 years ago they built it on the Canonigo Molina Street, a street that sounds like food. Not too long ago they undertook a new project and opened La Tasquilla, following the same line as their bar, but with a touch of boldness in their plates.

We take a stroll through the centre of this city and hear that I can’t leave without getting to know, and of course, enjoying the food from Alejandro Sanchez’s new one-Michelin Star establishment, with the name Plaza Vieja Alejandro, found in the Plaza de la Constitucion. Under the control of Alexis Asenjo and Miguel Angel Piorno, in the kitchen and dining room, respectively.

A very cheery and modern place, with the kitchen and the bodega within view of the client and a menu based on products from the land of Almeria. Without a doubt, you have to try the boladillos de ajo “colorao” (small coloured balls of garlic) and dogfish, the Bengal tigers, making a return to traditional stuffed mussels and calamari “Tapao”, crystallised in a pot with garlic oil and cinnamon. Once again, Alejandro has surprised us with his commitment, this yes, a little more informal.

Upon returning, I only plan another time to return to the city of the sun, surely before the next winter.

Plaza Vieja Alejandro Facade

Enlaces:

- La Térmica Restaurant
Avda. Cabo de Gata, esq. C/Teatro
04003 Almería
Tlf: 950 100 081
www.latermica.es

- Chele Bar
Canónigo Molina Alonso, 42
04004, Almería
Tlf: 950 273 680

- Plaza Vieja Alejandro Restaurant
Plaza de la Constitución, 5
04003 Almería
Tlf: 950 274 448
www.plazaviejaalejandro.com

- Provincial Association of Employers of the Fishing Industry (ASOPESCA)
Lonja de pescados, s/n Puerto Pesquero
04002 Almería
Tlf: 950 241 634